"I included a chicory soup recipe in my cookbook, Near & Far and to this day it's one I love to revisit. A brothy, restorative barley soup is made with seasonal chicories. Each bowl is punctuated with flecks of preserved lemon, a bit of chile confetti, and a silky dollop of creme fraiche. It's so simple, yet so warming and satisfying. The lemon plus the jolts of chile mingling with the richness of the creme fraiche is a dream."
"I wanted to revisit it today because the chicory and radicchio in the markets is beautiful right now, and also because it was one of the recipes Russ Moore made when we had a party at Camino and the menu featured recipes from the book. I had a bowl of bessara along with some flatbread made by Russ a couple of weeks back and it reminded me of how much I love his cooking, and what a special place Camino was."
"Chicory / radicchio - Make this soup when chicories are in season. They're cold weather enthusiasts so you'll likely come across them in winter markets, and as winter shifts to spring. But also in fall some places. For this soup I like to use pretty varietals with good structure - pretty pink rosa del Veneto, Castelfranco radicchio, Chioggia, Lusia, etc."
Brothy barley soup uses seasonal chicories and radicchio, finished with flecks of preserved lemon, chile confetti, and a silky dollop of creme fraiche. Semi-pearled barley or farro provides added starch and pronounced grain flavor; farro piccolo is suggested. Chicories are best in cold months—winter into spring—and include varietals such as rosa del Veneto, Castelfranco radicchio, Chioggia, and Lusia. Preserved lemon can be substituted with a quick peeler-hack to trim rind when preserved lemons are unavailable. The soup is simple, restorative, warming, and balances bright citrus, spicy heat, and rich creaminess.
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