"That past is his - it is the 20th anniversary of his label, and accordingly he decided to embrace, engage, even embed himself in his own history. Which, in and of itself, is a history of histories - Moralıoğlu's office is peppered with random 1930s portraits (the ones his husband, the architect Philip Joseph, won't let him keep in their Bloomsbury home) and old, time-warped issues of Vogue, as well as overflows of books on everything from Merce Cunningham to Alfred Hitchcock."
"Moralıoğlu is into old-fashioned beauty, in every sense of that descriptor and at all times. Generally, he takes as his inspiration a particular woman - usually, a dead one - and spins his own story around hers. There's been Margot Fonteyn, Debo, Duchess of Devonshire, Elizabeth II (she was actually alive when Moralıoğlu paid homage), and many more - enough to people some forty shows."
Erdem Moralıoğlu marked his label's 20th anniversary by mining his archive to create Autumn/Winter 2026 pieces that recombine past influences. His studio houses 1930s portraits, vintage Vogue issues, and books spanning dance and cinema, signaling a taste for old-fashioned beauty. Historically, collections have centered on individual women; for this season he layered multiple muses into a single imagined conversation, mixing references, biographies and portraiture. The collection cuts into earlier work and archives to reassemble motifs and stories, producing garments that feel archival yet newly arranged, romantic and historically inflected.
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