"This collection is about Valentino. It's about beauty. But it's [also] about the tension between me and the brand, a beauty I'm trying to translate. As a designer known for putting Harry Styles in pearls at Gucci, and using the Pasolinian leitmotif of fireflies to represent anti-fascism in his first show for Valentino, Michele's idea of beautiful clothes is less straightforward."
"By contrast, Garavani did not use fashion to incite gender equality, stir up political change or even set trends. As he once told the New York Times: It is very, very simple. I try to make my girls look sensational."
"Set in the 1980s, which Michele describes as a time of positivity and shiny things, when women were suddenly in control of their presence and their body, it was a collection defined by clashing jewel tones, big shoulders and draped tunics cinched in with satin sash belts. Jeans were spray-on tight with lace-dipped hems, and the tights were sheer and lilac."
Valentino Garavani, the legendary designer who built a fashion empire on elegant, sensational clothing for affluent women, passed away in January. His successor, Alessandro Michele, presented his first major collection for the house in Rome at Palazzo Barberini, marking a significant moment for the brand. Michele faces the challenge of balancing Garavani's straightforward approach to beauty with his own more conceptually complex design language. The autumn/winter collection drew inspiration from the 1980s, featuring jewel tones, dramatic shoulders, draped tunics, and satin sash belts. Michele's vision incorporates deeper meaning and artistic references, contrasting with Garavani's philosophy of simply making women look sensational.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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