"We Are the Keepers of Memories": Haider Ackermann Reimagines Tom Ford

"The first thing Haider Ackermann does when we meet for a drink in the leafy courtyard of La Réserve, a sexy hotel in Paris - it's a romantic place, good for a date - is to tell me to be careful because my shoelace is undone. That wouldn't be so remarkable were it not for the fact that it is the tiniest ribbon of leather, just peeking out from the hem of a pair of wide-legged trousers. The impression, immediately, is that he misses nothing, notices every last detail. Not that anyone who knows him or his work need be reminded of that."

"It was apparent in the immaculately choreographed collections for the signature label he launched in March 2001. They went on to become a much-loved, considered and contemplative Saturday-morning fixture of the Paris season for almost 20 years. It was clear in his perfectly constructed tailoring for Berluti, where he was creative director for two years, from 2016 to 2018, and in his standout collection for Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture. He was guest designer for Spring/Summer 2023 and his painstakingly crafted, achingly elegant collection was among that house's most critically and commercially well received."

"And it was evident, too, throughout his runway debut for Tom Ford back in March: from the soundtrack to the plush velvet banquettes, to the words graffitied on what looked like steamy nightclub walls, it was nothing short of perfect. As was every look that came down the runway, from a black leather perfecto and moto trousers to a citron yellow washed duchesse silk trouser suit and a languid, asymmetric powder blue crepe jersey evening dress."

Haider Ackermann applies meticulous attention to detail and refined tailoring to reinvigorate Tom Ford, combining contemplative craft with theatrical presentation. His career includes a signature label launched in March 2001, a creative directorship at Berluti from 2016 to 2018, and a celebrated guest collection for Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture as guest designer for Spring/Summer 2023. The Tom Ford runway debut featured immersive staging — soundtrack, plush velvet banquettes, and graffitied walls — alongside cohesive looks from a black leather perfecto and moto trousers to a citron-yellow duchesse silk trouser suit and an asymmetric powder-blue crepe jersey evening dress.

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