Lucinda O'Sullivan's restaurant review: The fare at this revamped Italian would be hard to beat even in Rome - and no dish is over 24
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Lucinda O'Sullivan's restaurant review: The fare at this revamped Italian would be hard to beat even in Rome - and no dish is over 24
"With a string of successful restaurants already to his name, Sean Crescenzi has breathed life into his family's former L'Officina in Dublin, writes our critic"
"Only recently, I realised that it's relatively hard to think of restaurants here, unlike in France, Italy or Spain, that have been so long in the biz that the next generation is now involved with the running and with moving things forward for the future."
"In fact, I probably couldn't even think of more than a half-dozen altogether, including one in Dublin that's completely stuck in its glory days of the 1980s when Joan Collins was strutting her stuff in Dynasty, and Patrick Duffy was getting lost in the bathroom in Dallas."
Sean Crescenzi has breathed life into his family's former L'Officina in Dublin following a string of successful restaurants. Long-established restaurants with active next-generation leadership are comparatively rare locally. France, Italy and Spain provide more examples of intergenerational continuity. Fewer than half a dozen venues locally appear to span generations with ongoing renewal. One Dublin restaurant remains frozen in its 1980s glory, evoking Joan Collins in Dynasty and Patrick Duffy lost in a Dallas bathroom. The Dublin dining scene shows limited generational transition, though individual revivals occur.
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