Despite All Odds, Beirut's Jazz Scene Persists

"I noticed the swelling of the double bass first, quickly followed by the fluttering of brushed cymbals. A saxophone pushing against the edges of a melody swiftly married the notes together, chords drifting haphazardly before reaching a slow, pulsing groove. The jazz quartet performed in front of a liquor cabinet lined with whisky bottles; low-hanging lights teetered overhead, throwing shapes on the monochromatic marble-tiled floor. Outside, a leafy veranda was filled with diners, the music drifting through flung-open doors and windows."

"Those efforts reached a peak during Lebanon's so-called Golden Era in the mid-20th century, a period marked by rapid economic growth and international cultural exchange. In April 1959, Louis Armstrong & His All-Stars were invited to perform a series of sold-out shows over a four-day period. Newspapers tracked Armstrong's impending arrival for weeks. When he landed, the airport reception was so overwhelming that he reportedly told Cecile Geammal, then vice president of the Jazz Club of"

Live jazz reemerges in Beirut through intimate late-night venues where quartets and soloists perform for diners and late crowds. Jazz arrived in Lebanon in the 1940s via Western radio broadcasts and American films, and expanded in the 1950s as records circulated and seaside districts and grand hotels hosted live sets. Enthusiasts formed the Beirut Jazz Club as a loose collective that organized gatherings, listening sessions, and visits from international musicians. The scene peaked during a mid-20th-century Golden Era, exemplified by Louis Armstrong's sold-out 1959 concerts and an overwhelming airport reception. A new generation of musicians and venues now sustains a contemporary revival.

Read at Conde Nast Traveler