"Fidel Caballero, the chef, he makes his tortillas not with lard but with butter, and adds sourdough starter, which gives them tang and tenderness. Surf clam is kissed on the grill and sliced fine so that it's all gentle sweetness. Then, paired with lap cheong, bought from around the corner on Canal Street."
"Maybe my absolute favorite was the esquites. Here it's re-engineered as risotto. It's slow-cooked with a dashi of corn husks instead of kombu, paired with mushrooms crisped on the plancha until they're as caramel-edged as carnitas."
"At Corima, the crowd is part of the point. It feels right to share plates, squabble over them. Maybe a tasting menu, with its hushed isolation, it's just too lonely a proposition for a restaurant that prizes the communal spirit."
Corima is an experimental Mexican restaurant on Allen Street between Chinatown and the Lower East Side that offers either a $140 tasting menu or à la carte dining. Chef Fidel Caballero reimagines traditional Mexican cuisine through innovative techniques: tortillas made with butter and sourdough starter, surf clam grilled and paired with lap cheong, and esquites transformed into risotto with corn husk dashi and caramelized mushrooms. Dishes like tlayuda feature thin, tender cecina beef. The restaurant emphasizes communal dining and shared plates. The loud, energetic atmosphere and complex ingredient combinations create an immersive experience where diners are encouraged to embrace surprise rather than fully understand each dish's components.
#experimental-mexican-cuisine #restaurant-review #communal-dining #innovative-cooking-techniques #chinatown-manhattan
Read at www.nytimes.com
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