A Greek bearing gifts: the many talents of the moschofilero grape | Hannah Crosbnie on drinks

"It's an ancient grape that's grown predominantly in the Peloponnese and on the Mantinia plateau, where the cool climate and average elevation help this delicate grape ripen. While the wines it makes are united by a steady acid, they can also range from the intensely aromatic to the clean and zesty. So, what's it like? I can compare it to a few things, which I always find helpful to my understanding of any grape."

"First, much like pinot grigio/pinot gris, moschofilero has a gorgeous, sunset-pink skin, despite it being a white grape. This means that, when the wine is left in contact with those skins, it turns a gorgeous blush pink. While such wines are marketed as roses, technically they're actually orange wines, because they're produced with white grapes. The other grape I'd compare it to is gewurztraminer, which is to say, moschofilero is also used to make intensely aromatic whites: think rose petals, blossoms, jasmine, stone fruit."

"That's why it's known as a chameleon grape, a description that hints at its versatility and the many styles it can be used to produce, which is just one reason modern sommeliers love it so. Emily Acha Derrington, who helped develop the wine list for London's smash hit Greek Oma (she's now wine buyer at Manteca), attests to its shapeshifting qualities: It can sit in more than one category on a restaurant list, so it's ideal for playing around with different styles to find what works with the food you cook at home."

Moschofilero is an ancient Greek grape primarily grown in the Peloponnese and on the Mantinia plateau, where cool climate and elevation aid delicate ripening. The wines share steady acidity and can range from intensely aromatic to clean and zesty. The grape has a sunset-pink skin that can produce blush pink wines when fermented on skins, creating rosé-style or technically orange wines from a white grape. Aromatic profiles include rose petals, jasmine and stone fruit. The variety is highly versatile, fitting multiple styles on wine lists and matching well with herby starters and Greek-style foods, which appeals to modern sommeliers.

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