My Specialized Diverge had served me well for over 20,000 miles-maybe closer to 25,000-but it was never designed as a pure touring bike. I'd been eyeing a Surly, the kind of bike built from the frame up for long, loaded journeys. A real workhorse. Something that could haul gear, chew up the miles, and shrug off the punishment of the road.
A decade ago it was whitewater rafting, ropes courses, and ziplines. This time, to mark a milestone birthday, three longtime friends - Ben, Brice, and I - set our sights on the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP), 150 miles of crushed-limestone rail trail threading the Appalachians from Cumberland, Maryland, to Pittsburgh. Ben (a college housemate), sidelined by bad discs, volunteered for logistics and to turn his 2020 Toyota Sienna into a makeshift SAG wagon.
My destination that night was Natchitoches, Louisiana. Just a few nights earlier, I'd been caught in one of the worst storms of my life while camping in a tent in Bowie, Texas. That night, the lightning was so close and the rain so sideways that I ended up calling the police to rescue me. You can read that full story here.