"Kiwi shows up in green salad, while rolls shaped like rose hips are served with a tart strawberry butter. Adjika, a harissalike Georgian condiment, is reimagined with peaches and made creamy with walnuts as a dressing for cucumber-tomato salad. The restaurant's chef, Maya Toria, says fruit enhances the appetite, the way her fig-mango salad with ginger dressing transitions seamlessly to a main course like the tangy veal stew, red with tomatoes and strawberries and dotted with an apple-celery purée."
"Georgian food is no longer the exotic discovery it was a dozen years ago, however. Natural wine, of all things, helped raise the country's profile here: Georgia is the originator of the skin-contact and amphora-aging techniques that have become popular industrywide; it's almost impossible to sit at the bar at any of the three Chama Mama outposts without hearing someone ask for "something funky," almost always fulfilled by a glass of hazy orange wine that can range from smoky to stony to taut."
Askili Orchard emphasizes fruit across spreads, salads, breads, and stews, giving dishes a distinctive sweet-tart profile. Kiwi appears in a green salad, and rolls shaped like rose hips are served with tart strawberry butter. Adjika is reimagined with peaches and walnuts as a creamy dressing for a cucumber-tomato salad. Chef Maya Toria says fruit enhances the appetite and links salads to mains, as in a fig-mango salad with ginger dressing leading to a tangy veal stew finished with tomato, strawberries, and an apple-celery purée. Owner Giorgi Papiashvili immigrated in 2013 after serving at Oda House. Georgian cuisine gained visibility through natural wine, skin-contact and amphora-aging techniques, and khachapuri's photogenic presentation has helped mainstream interest, inspiring restaurants like Cheeseboat.
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