"Gui takes a Korean approach. There's a ribeye, dry-aged for 45 days. Prime rib is wet-cured overnight with koji and then given a rub of spices, including shiokombu. So you get some of the flavors of Korean cooking and the meat itself is fired over binchotan Korean charcoal. Some of the surrounding dishes lack the same finesse Like an A5 Wagyu katsu sando that was maybe a little too fatty."
"La Tete d'Or takes a French perspective, and you can see that in the precision of the cooking of the steaks. Silverdomed prime rib trolleys maneuver through the room, occasionally almost colliding Midtown traffic. The 34-ounce porterhouse, which costs $260, is cooked perfectly, but the rest of the menu can feel a little fill in the blanks. There's the requisite steakhouse chocolate cake. Every steakhouse must have one, and perhaps inevitably, the Dubai chocolate soft-serve swirl sundae."
Three New York City steakhouses present distinct modern approaches. Gui applies Korean techniques: a 45-day dry-aged ribeye, prime rib wet-cured overnight with koji, shiokombu spice rub, and binchotan charcoal grilling, though some side dishes lack finesse. La Tete d'Or emphasizes French precision, with perfectly cooked steaks and roaming silver-domed prime rib trolleys; the 34-ounce porterhouse costs $260, though much of the menu feels perfunctory and includes standard steakhouse desserts. Cuerno channels Northern Mexico's carne asada traditions, using beef raised on South Dakota grasslands, and offers bold vegetable preparations and a convivial, generous dining experience.
Read at www.nytimes.com
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