"The line at Holbox during the midweek lunch hour has become a cultural sensation, a queue of locals and visitors trailing past the automatic doors and around the parking lot like devotees angling for the latest iPhone series or limited-release sneakers. Believe the lauds, including ours when we named Holbox as The Times' 2023 Restaurant of the Year. Gilberto Cetina's command of mariscos is unmatched"
"in Southern California his ceviches, aguachiles and tostadas revolutionary in their freshness and jigsaw-intricate flavors. The smoked kanpachi taco alone clinched with queso Chihuahua and finished with salsa cruda, avocado and drizzles of peanut salsa macha is one of the most sophisticated things to eat in Los Angeles. Holbox could be considered for the top ranking on its own strength. But in a year when disasters tore at our city, honoring"
Holbox attracts long lines of locals and visitors, becoming a cultural sensation during midweek lunch. Gilberto Cetina commands mariscos with ceviches, aguachiles and tostadas lauded for freshness and complex flavors. The smoked kanpachi taco with queso Chihuahua, salsa cruda, avocado and peanut salsa macha exemplifies the menu's sophistication. Holbox operates inside Mercado La Paloma in South L.A., the economic-development arm of Esperanza Community Housing Corp., a nonprofit focused on affordable housing and equitable healthcare. Esperanza incubated the mercado, interviewing prospective restaurateurs and launching stalls such as Chichen Itza in 2001. The 35,000-square-foot market emphasizes masa traditions and supports small food entrepreneurs.
Read at www.latimes.com
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