From 2010, New Zealand's second-largest city, Christchurch, became inextricably linked with crises. The city, which had been known for its gardens, gothic architecture and monochromatic culture was rocked by a decade of tragedy devastating and fatal earthquakes, wildfires and a terrorist attack on two mosques that killed more than 50 people. But in recent years, the city of crises has taken a surprising turn shrugging off its once-conservative reputation and rebuilding from tragedy to become one of New Zealand's most appealing cities.
It was late November, and I was standing in an ancient beech forest at the edge of Towada-Hachimantai National Park in Japan's Tohoku region. The area, deep in the Ōu Mountains on the northern tip of Honshu, is known for its autumn colors, hundreds of species of moss, and the Oirase Gorge, a river valley with abundant waterfalls. The Oirase Stream is fed by Lake Towada, a volcanic double caldera that is the primary source of the region's rich biodiversity.
