Clara Greenstein, a 28-year-old who lives in Queens, New York, can be found several nights a week at her local bar, The Seneca. The spot serves good burgers and drinks for a good price, but the main draw is a pool table. Greenstein entered a tournament about two years ago, and now she's inherited the role of running it. "I get a free hamburger every week and get to basically have office hours for all my friends," she tells me.
There are some litmus tests to identify a dive, though they aren't always conclusive: Has the bar been around since the Hoover administration? Is there wall-to-wall carpeting? Does the bathroom fill you with unease? Is the OLCC's requirement to serve hot food begrudgingly met with microwaved meals, hot dogs, and maybe a fryer? But ultimately it comes down to that ineffable quality of vibes, and the sentiment made famous by Justice Potter Stewart in 1964: I know it when I see it.