Summer's over and the city is back: fall is when London's restaurant scene really comes into its own. This September is promising a bumper load of new openings, from international exports to home-grown talent. While a lot of the new London openings are just that (new), in a time where the news headlines are full of downbeat tales of the decline of hospitality,
Like you, the staff keeps things casual, flying between the tightly packed two-tops in oversized button-ups and distressed jeans, and always attentive without hovering. Courses arrive in quick succession, without long, drawn-out pauses, and reservations come relatively easy (weekday tables are usually available day of and weekends just need a day or two of notice). Stlll, there are fine dining touches where it counts: big-deal wine bottles, cutlery swaps between courses, and daily printed menus.
At least a month or so ahead of my north London kitchen, I'm cooking with artichokes, aubergines, courgettes, tomatoes, broad beans and superb local new potatoes, all straight from the fields.