Gusts of wind blow through the Bryant Street alley in San Francisco's Mission District, sending tablecloths flapping uncontrollably until they are secured to the high-top tables with heavy plates of Acme seed bread, house-made cultured butter, duck liver pate and bottles of chenin blanc.
In this enchanted spot, the house's owner, Gioconda Scott, appears. A cook, salonière and founder member of Seville's Slow Food movement, she is also the director of tonight's artistic gathering or tertulia.